Area54's avatar

Area54

Grim Ripper (1343)
System Manager
Oct 04, 2014
11:36 am

The 1200km Kiwi Brevet is done and dusted for 2014 - race report on that to follow - I thought I'd share the build spec of my ti Fargo.

Like all of my builds, I plan out the components and cherry pick the best that suit the application, taking into account weight, durability, reliability and to a lesser extent, price. You've gotta start with a good chassis though, that is key.

I've had this bike for several years now, it has seen quite a few changes as it gets refined for different trips. This is not a how-to build thread as such, more a what-I-used-and-why article.

It's a 2011 titanium Fargo, 56cm, pre-alternator dropout. I like a low front end, and was never truly happy with the geometry (or weight) of the original steel fork, so I designed my own and had a titanium fork made by my good friends at Muru Cycles. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite ready before the Kiwi, so I'm rocking a steel prototype in these pics, but I'll update this thread with the ti fork pics. The front end is now lower, the wheelbase is shorter and the bike now handles closer to my road bike, kinda like a monster gravel grinder and is super plush with that ti fork!

I hope you enjoy the article and take some tech away, as always any questions - just ask!

Spec sheet as pictured:

Frame: 2011 ti Fargo

Fork: steel prototype

Bars: 44cm Woodchippers, 30mm trimmed off the ends

Bartape: Prologo Double Touch, with silicone gel underlay pads

Stem: 120mm Thomson neg 17 degree

Headset: Chris King

Seatpost: Thomson Elite, setback

Shifters: SRAM Apex

Brakes: Avid BB7 road, 180mm rotor front and rear

Rear derailleur: SRAM Apex mid cage

Front Derailleur: SRAM X0 2x10

Cassette: 11-36 SRAM 1070

Cranks: SRAM X9 alloy

Chainrings: 38-24

Pedals: XTR

Rear hub: Chris King 36H, Salsa Flipoff skewer

Front hub: SON 28 36H, Salsa Flipoff skewer

Rims: Mavic TN719 disc

Spokes: DT Competition black, alloy prolock nipples

Tyres: Schwalbe Thunder Burt, tubeless

Up front is a Revelate Sweetroll, this is the latest drybag version, in this I stuffed my sleeping bag (Montbell down hugger) and night clothes (I took no other riding clothes - 1 set for the whole week), rain jacket - had no problem accessing the side of the bag through the Woodchippers. I've trimmed 30mm off the ends of the 'chippers, just didn't need/use the extra length. I'm using Prologo Double Touch bartape - this has a thicker feel and a gel adhesive, as well as silicone gel underlay pads in the key areas. I build up the junction area between the bar and the rear of the shifter/hood with bartape offcuts, to smooth the transition and provide a flatter area between bar and shifter. I find the tops are comfy enough to not need aerobars, easy enough to ride with forearms on the tops and grab the front bag for stability - only for a few minutes to eat, rest the hands a bit or go super aero.

A medium Revelate Pocket clips to the Sweetroll, and contained spare camera batteries and SD cards (in an old patch repair kit box), small backup cache battery and other small junk. Toiletries (powder, deodorant, baby wipes, bug spray, chafe cream) in the front mini pocket (Revelate Spocket), micro towel tethered and stuffed behind pocket. Having the towel there is great, away from the dust and it dries very quickly in its little mesh sack, with plenty of airflow. The tripod head fits snugly into an old phone case and then velcroed on for quick and easy access.

I chose the Apex shifters as they are a real workhorse - easy to service, the lever blades are alloy, a lot tougher and more resistant to damage than carbon units. SRAM drivetrains run a higher cable tension than others, due to the 2 spring (parallelogram and pulley knuckle) design, therefore they are less prone to shifting issues in less than perfect operating conditions, should the cables get contaminated or damaged.

Topside ***pit, I have my cue sheets rolled up in a ziplock and tethered to the bars with blue paracord. As the distances roll on you just rotate the sheet. Garmin 810, PRO SX4 wired computer. Huge fan of wired computers - may be a hassle for travel with wires and stuff, but when set correctly they are super accurate and trustworthy with distances, and signal is not interfered with by lights, close proximity to GPS devices or overhead high voltage powerlines. The 810 gave me overall distances, mapping and route finding (but I didn't follow a course plot) and the PRO allowed me to reset distances to match my cue sheets, as well as provide lightweight redundancy. The Garmin is tethered to the stem with green paracord through the silicone cover and a glued patch stuck to the Garmin body.

Because I run a low front end, the loaded Sweetroll bag is in danger of scrubbing the front tyre, so I made up this centreline support strap that allows the bag to droop on each side of the tyre, but is held away by the strap above the tyre...make sense? You can see a 20mm wide Velcro anchor strap around the front of the stem (under the Garmin mount), and then 15mm wide webbing strap running between the anchor and the stem, then around the load in the Sweetroll. Tighten this webbing strap after the load is in the Sweetroll and it will keep it away from the tyre. Simple and effective. I used this same setup (albeit a lot bigger with wider webbing) for my Alaska Iditarod trip and Oregon backcountry tour on the fatbike with great success, and the load was a lot bigger and bulkier.

This top tube pocket held the vitamin supply (Aspirin, Ibuprofen) toothbrush and paste (I store them here so I can get moving and brush teeth while riding - its easier than you think and it saves time) chapstick, pen and notepaper. A tip on storage - the less you take the better, and the less you stuff into a storage space the better the load will sit when you want to access it on the fly - you don't want your essentials flying out while you reach for the chapstick. Also, I lube all the zips with a dry lubricant paste, such as Bike Butter from Ride Mechanic because you want the zips to open and close one handed with no binding. I like the low, narrow design of this bag as I don't hit my knees on it while climbing. Did a LOT of climbing in NZ...

Fork leg storage. A Salsa Anything cage on each leg, drive side (right image) I used an Outdoor Research insulated bottle cozy as a simple, quick access storage bag for my Synmat 7 airmat (luxury sleep) and an uber light Sugoi windvest. A Revelate feed bag held the daily ration of gels, bars, lollies, overflow food etc - more on the food plan in the race report. The other leg held my Tarptent Contrail, I loop the drybag cinch cord around the cage and then loop the main webbing strap around the fork leg for security against cage breakage - these were the gen 1 anything cages.

On board power via SON 28 and E-Werk convertor. Braking from the bulletproof Avid BB7 road caliper and 180mm rotors front and rear. These brakes are heavy (when compared to hydraulics) but are simple, quick to adjust. I run metal pads for fully loaded braking performance on long descents, and my logic for running 180mm rotors front and rear - provides redundancy in the case of damage to one of the braking systems, I can still cobble something together to make 1 fully functioning brake either front or rear, with no limitations due to caliper adaptor/rotor sizing.

Here you can see the E-Werk nestled in between the framebag and the top tube, I've modified the length of the USB output cable to allow the USB port to sit neatly against the side of the toptube - visible just under the word 'Stealth' on the XLAB bag. This allowed me to plug in USB cables one handed, on the go. The devices to recharge - Exposure Diablo 1100lumen headlight, Garmin 810, ES Beacon taillight, ES Firefly 200lumen headlight (backup), Android phone, Steripen.

A tip on electrical cable routing - for expeditions I prefer to use strips of double sided Velcro (or a wrap of electrical tape on tapered tubes) instead of zip ties to secure the cables against the frame or fork. Zip ties can place a concentrated load on small gauge cables, splitting the insulation inside and causing short circuits and ultimately a failure. Velcro strips are gentler on the cable, provides easy removal/relocation for travel/packdown and allows a bit of give should a cable snag.

Main water tank was a 4L MSR Dromedary in the top main pocket of the framebag, it held roughly 3L of water. The process is to shutoff the valve and disconnect the quick coupling (lower right image), remove the Drom bag, fill it almost to capacity, then stuff it back in the framebag, connect the hose, open the valve and drink what you can until the zip closes - forcing you to 'camel up' some water. The Steripen Freedom (along with gauze filter cloth and Aquatabs for backup) sat well at the front of the bag where there was generally a void due to the water sitting level and the sloping toptube. The bottle cage (a Salsa Nickless cage) on the top tube works exceptionally well, keeping a bottle close at hand means you'll hydrate more often, have something to filter with/purify as required, drop into a stream or fill with a Slushie at convenience stores. My legs never hit it, capitalises on wasted frame space. I have two thin slivers of rubber glued to the cage mounts to prevent movement, stainless steel hoseclamps.

The hose on the bars is a convenient way to hydrate from the bag while riding, the thin Velcro strap up near the mouthpiece keeps the hose in place. The hose disconnect allows me to remove the hose for quick filling of pots at meals or the bidon after breakfast.

The lower segment of the framebag is basically the garage - all the tools, spares, lube and rag, zip ties, tape, super glue, fabric and needle/thread. Sounds more like a doomsday prepper list than something you need for a bike ride, but it's all micro sized and super compact.

This pocket on the seatpost kept my camera (Panasonic FT2) close at hand. It was the only item in this pocket, so removal and putting away was a one handed affair and no worries about losing other stowed items during use. Again, the less you carry in oft-accessed storage pockets the better. I also use a Revelate Jerrycan in this position, but the seatbag straps can fight for space a bit when using it with the top tube bottle cage. This pocket also has a narrow, tapered top, so it doesn't rub on clothing like a jerrycan would this high up.

Out the back is a Revelate Viscacha seatbag, with a Spocket on top. The seatbag holds all of my food - 6 days worth - and cooking gear (600mL ti pot, gas can and Kovea ti burner, spoon, S2S silicone cup). 6 days of food was overkill for the Brevet - there were lots of small towns to restock - but I wanted to test out certain feeding strategies for future remote area trips. I run a secondary support strap from the seat rails to the back of the seatbag, to alleviate loading on the main seatbag mounting straps. Strapped to the side of the seatbag you can see my Salomon mini gaiters - these were excellent in keeping debris out of my socks and boots.

Here are the 6 day rations. Controlled portions, as well as concentrates (gels and higher energy bars) portioned into smaller day bags. Each major ration pack had a cooked dinner and breakfast, with an MRE lunch, so only needed to access seatbag cook kit for major meals. The MRE and daily concentrate pack would be loaded into the jersey pocket or feed bag for daily consumption, along with fruit or other treats bought along the way. I'll cover the meal pack contents in another article.

The Spocket contained exactly what it was designed for - SPOT gen 3 tracker, small headtorch, blinky taillight, first aid kit.

As I'm not running a rack or drink bottle cages on the frame, the regular braze-ons aren't being used. To prevent water and debris from entering the frame, you'd normally just pop some bolts in to plug the holes. I wanted a cleaner look, so I cut the heads off some alloy M5 drink cage bolts, cleaned the threads, then slotted the end with a hacksaw, threaded them into the frame with a small flat blade screwdriver, with a tiny bit of Loctite to hold them in place.

Drivetrain logic - I weighed an X0 rear derailleur (with its carbon pulley cage) against the Apex. I added an inline cable barrel adjuster to the X0 mech (because it doesn't have it built in like the Apex) and it was 1g lighter than the Apex. A full metal pulley cage is durable, malleable and provides peace of mind. Spare derailleur hangers in the framebag garage, along with cables, crimps, cutters, spokes and micro lock ring tool for cassette removal.

Durable hollow arm alloy X9 cranks, with 38/24 chainrings. My choice of these ratios comes from experience loaded and unloaded. I looked carefully at how many ratios I used in real world conditions and I found that a 42T was just too tall to use the full cassette, even for high speed running with a sweet tailwind. Also, my move to the shorter fork drops the BB height, so the smaller big dog maintains reasonable log rollover clearance. The 24T preserves the lower tooth count jump between sprockets and is more than enough for climbs, even loaded. I still walk plenty of unrideable trails.

Overall, alloy components may be a touch heavier, but that added material pays for itself in durability over many, many years of field use. Yes I know carbon is strong and lighter, but often the design parameters for a carbon product in the bike industry is about lighter weight performance, not necessarily for durability in arduous conditions for a decade or two.

For this application I like the Chris King Ring Drive and full stainless bearing setup, the simple seal system and the ability to continue performing even after water ingress to the mechanism (with no corrosion after effects like many sealed bearing options). I service it prior to any major trip, and remains quiet for those stealth bivvy spots.

The Thunder Burts have an incredibly light casing, with low tread blocks and were a nice, fast rolling choice on both asphalt and dirt. More on how these performed will be covered in the race report.

The Mavic TN719 rim is a favourite of mine, when I built them I applied a corrosion inhibitor to the nipples and eyelets from inside the rim cavity, to prevent corrosion that often appears on tubeless setups - via both active chemicals in the sealant and trapped moisture in the cavity, from river crossings and washing etc. This rim isn't perfectly suited to tubeless with no internal bead socket lock, but I like the light weight, strength and high spoke tension allowance in an eyeletted package. I prefer a 36H for these setups, makes a bombproof wheel with plenty of redundancy when fully loaded over long hauls.

That about wraps it up for this tuned build for the Kiwi. I hope you found some tech that may help you net more out of your adventures, simplify your setup, get improved reliability and achieve lofty goals!

Rainbow Rd, New Zealand.

UPDATE 7-10-2014: Muru Cycles titanium fork

A recent local gravel grind.

I designed this fork to compliment the frame, I've specced oversized tubing (non-tapered blade), 3 bottle cage mounts on each leg (to suit anything cages etc), mid blade rack mounts and fender mounts on the dropouts (you never know), straight 1 1/8 steerer, crown to axle 427mm.

When riding the bike the comfort is immediately apparent - the very nature of titanium as a fork material, allows some slight fore and aft deflection on rough roads. I oversized the fork blade to minimise the deflection to only what is necessary for comfort, without detracting from the stiffness when descending.

The bike is parked on a slight downhill, but I set the top of the lever hoods horizontal. I originally set the bars up at 22 degrees from horizontal, which is the rough 'universal' starting point for setting up Woodchippers, but with such a departure from a 'traditional' Fargo setup, I reverted back to what felt right - and what you see here. The power zone still sits squarely in the drops, and this angle feels so natural and very neutral for the wrists.

I originally wanted tighter radius bends on the crown, but understand that mandrel bending ti tube is difficult. The outcome was the same - matching my crown to axle requirement was the key dimension. The tyre I'm running is a very worn Kenda small block eight 2.3".

Very impressed with the weld quality and the machined lugs. Weight of the fork with an uncut steerer was a touch over 600g.

The wheelbase has shortened, I do get some slight toe overlap. Descending is superb and precise, and climbing performance is far, far improved on both the hoods and the drops. Climbing improvement was the primary factor in designing this fork for the Fargo. Comfort was a side bonus!

This ti fork is available on custom order from Muru Cycles - shoot them an email and have a chat - mention the 'Troy' fork and they will sort you out!

http://www.murucycles.com/

✎ Oct 11, 2014 08:31 am  
flyboy's avatar

flyboy 20

Grim Ripper (1859)
Member
Oct 04, 2014
12:54 pm

Thanks for the insight Troy. It makes my "does it look nice" gear selection method look somewhat lacking! I am looking forward to the race write up. Cheers.

 
Mikus666's avatar

Mikus666 667

Mad Skillz (574)
Member
Oct 04, 2014
01:02 pm

Great read over lunch.

 
PeteC's avatar

PeteC 38

Dirt Squirt (107)
Member
Oct 04, 2014
01:40 pm

Fascinating, thanks Troy. Really looking forward to the race report.

 
GTer's avatar

GTer 43

Knob Scrubber (347)
Member
Oct 05, 2014
09:43 am

Nice set up you have there Area 54

 
championbeerbelly's avatar

championbeerbelly 46

Dirt Squirt (152)
Member
Oct 05, 2014
10:17 am

got a question about chains... do you replace them before a big adventure like this, or just as they wear out? Like others, am looking forward to the next article. cheers, paul

 
Area54's avatar

Area54

Grim Ripper (1343)
System Manager
Oct 08, 2014
10:31 am

I have just appended the post, to include the details of the custom ti fork.

Glad you enjoyed reading it, hopefully there is some good tech there to help you with your adventure setups!

Chain is something that is checked very regularly with a chain checker (you should have a look at the new 10 inch tool from Ride Mechanic) and normally replaced as required. But if it's close, I'll change it out a few weeks before the event anyway, and thoroughly test ride to ensure no slippage on the old cassette.

✎ Oct 08, 2014 10:39 am  
finch's avatar

finch

Grim Ripper (1850)
Member
Oct 08, 2014
11:24 am

what is the difference in the new fork? Shorter AC? Did you change the rake at all?

 
Slow pom's avatar

Slow pom 43

Mad Skillz (613)
Member
Oct 08, 2014
12:05 pm

Good to see you rocking the Chis King rear hub.

I recently advised someone to go with them, but the shop doing his wheel build changed his mind and sold him DT240s instead, saying that CK hubs had an inherant design flaw.

In my 15 years using them, I haven't found one!

Wish I had as much time as you have for your cycling adventures!

 
Area54's avatar

Area54

Grim Ripper (1343)
System Manager
Oct 11, 2014
09:14 am

Some more updates on the orig post.

Yep, the AC is shorter, rake is custom and took me a while to get it where I wanted it, its like a ful keg lighter too!

 
Aushiker's avatar

Aushiker

Noob (8)
Member
Jan 22, 2015
07:43 pm

Great read and very informative in terms of setting up for bikepacking. Do you have any spare space in the framebag for say more clothes or water?

Regards
Andrew

 
Area54's avatar

Area54

Grim Ripper (1343)
System Manager
Jan 23, 2015
06:32 am

More clothes would go in the handlebar bag, more water would go into other external storage - 4L dromedary in the top section of the framebag was plenty along with the bidon on the top tube.

The setup is very dynamic - having a wide variety of bags allows you to refine your setup for a particular trip, a also refine your packing procedure - basically what goes where. On this trip, the seatbag was for food - for other trips it might be for bulky clothes and the food goes in the framebag - this is my setup for the Iditarod in a few weeks - albeit on my fatbike.

✎ Jan 23, 2015 06:33 am